There are many mature men's toys, such as cars, such as antiques, but they are not as popular as mechanical watches. Mechanical watches for men, just like brand-name bags for women, people who love it will never be enough, people who do not understand it have all kinds of questions. "Mechanical watches are so expensive, why buy mechanical watches?" Or "The efficiency of mechanical watches is very low, including the tourbillon, there is no quartz watch, do not understand the people who spend so much money to buy mechanical watches." So what is it about mechanical watches that is worth loving? And why is it so expensive? Is the mechanical watch really inaccurate? ... There are 10 things to know about mechanical watches.

Mechanical watches, as the name suggests, are watches that completely rely on mechanical principles to complete the timing work, in short, they are completely driven by internal mechanical structures such as spring and gears, rather than batteries, light energy or other energy-driven clocks, which are divided into automatic winding and manual winding. The power source of these two mechanical watches comes from relying on the spring in the movement to drive the gear and then push the watch hand, the only difference is that the power source is different. Manual winding mechanical watches rely on the power generated by rotating the watch to drive the spring, the thickness of the movement is thinner than that of the general automatic winding watch, and the relative weight of the whole watch is lighter. The automatic winding watch uses the power generated by the automatic swing at the bottom of the movement to drive the spring to generate energy, but the relative thickness of the watch will be thicker than the general manual winding watch, and most of them have the function of manual winding at the same time.

Automatic winding mechanical watches usually have a semicircular, rotating pendulum in the movement. Automatic winding mechanical watch through the rotation of the pendulum, drive the gear and lever to wind the watch. As long as you wear the watch, you can swing the arm, let the pendulum "turn" up, wind up, and it is completed unconsciously. Therefore, the so-called automatic winding still requires the participation of the hand, but it is not necessary to deliberately turn the crown by hand.

Not to mention the polishing of the movement. As the so-called "one point of price, one point of goods", entry-level mechanical watches are mostly only slightly modified on the pendulum, and the overall view is "clear soup oligowater". At the mid-range level, fish scales, and even Geneva ripples, appear in full force. And advanced mechanical watches, movement grinding is more outstanding, some will also have a very special brand characteristics of the special grinding, such as Omega radial Arab Geneva ripple and so on.

The charm of mechanical watches and the charm of mature men have the same wonderful, to experience the precipitation of time, to savor, the charm is not only on the surface, but also the charm of the inner "heart". Movement can be described as the soul of mechanical watches, and high-priced watches are often the range of the movement technology experience of the big names, and there is a cost to wrest the technology, from the movement's accuracy, grinding level to the shape and so on are necessary.
Founded in 1874, Piaget successfully developed a 9P winding movement with a thickness of only 2.0mm in 1957, and launched a 12P automatic movement with a thickness of only 2.32mm in 1960, respectively, setting the world record for the thinest hand chain and self-winding movement in the world, and is still rewriting many historical records.

The modern automatic watch rotor system was developed by Rolex and registered as a patent. It was introduced into the Oyster series in 1931 under the name Oyster Constant Motion. The technical director of Rolex at the time was Emile Borer, who developed the rotor system of the modern movement.
However, the first person to invent is Abraham-Louis Perrelet, who is considered to be the father of the mechanical watch. He introduced the concept in 1770, because the invention was more suitable for watches, so it was very advanced at the time. Unfortunately, the Bertelet Perrelet lived in the era of pocket watches, which did not move much in the pocket, resulting in the device not gaining enough power to wind the main spring enough, so the automatic watch system did not perform well at that time.
Abraham-Louis Perrelet(1747-1823) improved the automatic winding system, calling it a "constant motion" clock. Other great watchmakers of the 19th century also advanced the concept. But it wasn't until after World War I, when watches became popular and Rolex perfected its system, that automatic movements were incorporated into their models.

Breguet series 7047 Variable speed constant motion watch, inspired by the 728 pocket watch once designed by the founder Breguet Master, eccentric time indication, and the pendulum, escapement wheel are moved to the front of the watch, which can be regarded as a witness to the history of the brand.

Due to the working principle, mechanical watches are affected by magnetic field, temperature, friction, hairspring balance and other factors, and the travel time is not as good as quartz watches and electronic watches. Depending on the quality of the movement, the accuracy of the automatic mechanical watch varies from positive 30 seconds to negative 5 seconds. The HKO certified movement should not exceed 4 seconds slow and 6 seconds fast. The quartz watch is extremely accurate, and the annual error is very low: less than one minute per year, that is, less than one second per day. However, it was also mentioned earlier that the hero cannot be talked about with precision, and the charm of mechanical watches lies in their artistry, not the practicality of precision.

The newly released Defy series El Primero 21 diamond-encrusted watch is equipped with Zenith's epoch-making El Primero 21 movement, which has an unprecedented timing accuracy of one hundredth of a second, and is set with a total weight of up to 5 carats of diamonds, which is as rich as stars, and takes the charm of interior and exterior decoration and luxury to a new level.

Swiss Observatory certification is an assessment of the accuracy of a watch by the official Swiss Observatory Testing Organization (C.O.S.C.), and a qualified watch is often called a Chronometer - observatory watch. The word Chronometer comes from a combination of two Greek words: Khronos(time) and Metron(calculation, measurement). C.O.S.C. has three testing centers in Switzerland: Geneva, Biel and Lashaud. Of the total number of watches inspected, about 2-3% will be eliminated. Since the test is a one-by-one test, there may be some numerical differences in the test results even for two tables of the same type. Mechanical watches reach the standard as long as the daily error is between -4 and +6 seconds.

The Geneva seal is derived from the Geneva Rules formulated in 1886 to ensure the origin of the clock and the craftsmanship of the artisans. The Geneva Mark is awarded only to watches made in the Geneva region, and only watches carrying a hand-made and self-winding mechanical movement can be awarded this honor, and the insignia of "Eagle and Key" is engraved on the splint of the movement, although it is not necessarily a good watch without the Geneva mark. But the standards that meet the Geneva Seal can represent almost the highest level of sophistication in watchmaking.

As a new symbol of watchmaking excellence, the Patek Philippe mark exceeds all existing standards in the Swiss watchmaking industry. This "mark" also represents Patek Philippe's commitment to provide lifelong maintenance and restoration services for every timepiece made since 1839, so with this "mark", Patek Philippe ensures that timepieces can be passed down from generation to generation.

Tourbillon is a watchmaking pioneer Breguet invented in 1795 and still used a clock speed regulation device, which is also one of the reasons for Breguet in the history of watchmaking culture has irreplaceable, the invention of the initial application in the pocket watch above, is to resist gravity on the watch escapement system caused by the error.

Ordinary mechanical watches, due to the impact of spring tightness, metal fatigue and gravity, the error is large; Tourbillon governor is the only mechanical watch structure that can not be affected by these effects, with an annual error of less than 1 second, and the only mechanical watch structure that can reach the observatory level.

Perpetual calendar watch does not mean that it can really run for thousands of years, there is no error, in fact, every hundred years need to be adjusted. Some people will think that among the three complex functions, the perpetual calendar is the simplest, why will it sell so expensive? Think about it, the ordinary week calendar, encounter the size of the month to manually adjust the date, otherwise you will encounter the embarrassing scene of May 1, but the watch still shows April 31.

With the popularity of glow-in-the-dark watches, the practicality of three watches has greatly decreased, glow-in-the dark watches are more practical and simple, and the cost is more cost-effective, there is no need to make three questions, now the three questions and tourbillon, the main function is the platform of the major brands to show off technology, a sign of strength.

To judge the grade of a three-question table, the most important thing is the timeliness, the cheap three-question table, the sound of the time is slow and cloudy, and the top three-question table of the million level, the sound is clear and clear, the charm of this sound, no matter when and where it can make people addicted.

The production of hollow watches is a delicate art, requiring excellent watchmaking technology and ultra-high artistic sensitivity, its purpose is to minimize the structure of the parts, so that light can freely penetrate the watch, so as to show the operation of the movement inside, to show people the beauty of mechanical movement.

In order to show the high precision and super dynamic movement of the movement, the watchmaker needs to use the ordinary movement as the basis, first drill the part that needs to be hollowed-out into small holes with a needle, remove excess metal, and then use a carving knife to modify all the edges into a 45 degree Angle bevel and carve the face of the movement into different patterns. In this highly aesthetic process, they also had to minimize the obstacles to seeing through the underlying movement. The process is complicated, the process is fine, and the production difficulty is quite high.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42 self-winding hollowed-out watch, the brand's iconic interplanetary hollowed-out dial exudes a handsome and eye-catching temperament, and the clever gas of hollowed-out process is fully displayed on the movement. Carbon fiber case shows the avant-garde style, the combination of extraordinary creativity and subversive materials engraved the brand of innovation and breakthrough.